Feeling overwhelmed by your laser marker’s settings? You’re not alone. For beginners, the key to great results lies not in a single “magic” number, but in mastering three core parameters that work as a team: Power, Speed, and Frequency. Like musicians in an orchestra, each is vital, but their harmonious combination creates the perfect mark. This guide cuts through the complexity, giving you plain-language explanations and actionable steps to move from confusion to confidence. Note: Power values are based on a standard 50W laser. Adjust proportionally if your machine’s power is different.
Application Parameter Table for Different Materials and Effects
Here is a quick-reference starting point for common materials. These values are based on a 50W laser. Always test on scrap material first, as your specific setup will affect results.
| Material | Desired Effect | Power (W) | Speed (mm/s) | Notes |
| Stainless Steel | Black Annealing | 35-45 W | 100-300 | High frequency (50-80 kHz) |
| Stainless Steel | Light Engraving | 10-20 W | 500-1000 | Avoids deep melting |
| Anodized Aluminum | White Mark | 15-30 W | 500-800 | Removes colored layer |
| Raw Aluminum | Dark Engraving | 40-50 W | 200-400 | May require 2 passes |
| Plastic (ABS/Acrylic) | Crisp Engraving | 7.5-15 W | 700-1200 | High speed to prevent melt |
| Wood (Hard) | Dark Engraving | 25-40 W | 200-400 | Natural carbonization |
| Coated Metals | Peel Coat | 10-25 W | 400-700 | Targets coating only |
| Glass/Ceramic | Frosted Etch | 5-15 W | 300-600 | Use multiple passes |
Understanding Laser Marking Core Parameters: Power, Speed, Depth，And Frequency
Now, let’s build a solid conceptual understanding of the three pillars of laser marking machine. Depth, Speed, and Power are not independent dials you turn randomly; they are in a constant, dynamic relationship. Visualize the laser’s effect on the material as the result of total energy delivered. This energy is a product of Power (strength), exposure Time (inversely related to Speed), and pulse Density (Frequency).
Power: The Intensity of the Laser Beam
Definition: Power determines the peak energy output of the laser, measured in watts (W). It dictates the intensity of the laser-material interaction.
How it Works: Think of power as the “strength” of the laser. Higher power delivers more energy to the material per unit time.
Typical Applications & Example Values (for a 50W laser):
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Low Power (5-15W): Used for surface marking with minimal depth (e.g., 0.01-0.05mm). Ideal for creating black annealing marks on stainless steel (color change only, almost no depth) or frosted marks on anodized aluminum (white marks with 0.01-0.03mm depth).
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Medium Power (15-30W): The most common range for standard engraving (0.05-0.2mm depth). Perfect for most plastics and woods.
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High Power (30-50W): Required for deep engraving (>0.2mm depth, often 0.3-0.5mm+) and cutting. Essential for creating tactile engravings in metals like aluminum.
Speed: The Controller of Exposure Time
Definition: Speed controls the travel rate of the laser head, measured in millimeters per second (mm/s). It inversely determines the exposure time at any point.
How it Works: Think of speed as controlling the “dwell time”. Slower speed allows longer energy exposure, leading to greater effect.
Typical Applications & Example Ranges:
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Very Slow (50-200 mm/s): Used for deep engraving, cutting, or creating high-contrast black annealing marks. This allows maximum energy deposition.
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Medium Speed (200-600 mm/s): The versatile range for general-purpose engraving on metals and woods. Balances quality and efficiency.
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Fast (600-1200+ mm/s): Critical for surface marking on plastics and coated metals to prevent melting. Also used for high-throughput, shallow marking.
Depth: The Result of Energy Input
Definition: Marking Depth is the measurable vertical displacement (in millimeters) of the material surface after laser processing. It is a result, not a direct setting.
How it is Controlled: Depth is directly proportional to the total energy delivered per area, controlled by Power, Speed, and Passes.
Typical Effects & Achievable Depths:
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Surface Annealing (Black Mark): Almost zero depth (0-0.01mm). It’s a color change via oxidation.
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Light Engraving / White Mark: Shallow depth (0.01-0.1mm). Removes a thin surface layer without significant groove.
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Standard Engraving: Moderate depth (0.1-0.3mm). Common for legible serial numbers and logos.
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Deep Engraving: Significant depth (0.3-1.0mm or more). Used for molds, stamps, or highly tactile parts.
Frequency’s Supporting Role
While Depth, Speed, and Power are the main actors, Frequency (measured in kHz, or pulses per second) plays a critical supporting role. It determines the pulse overlap. Higher frequency means pulses are closer together, leading to a smoother, more continuous heating effect—ideal for creating a uniform dark anneal on stainless steel. Lower frequency creates more space between pulses, resulting in a dotted or stippled effect; this can be useful on plastics to create a textured “foaming” mark or to reduce heat input when cutting. For most general engraving, a medium frequency range (20-60 kHz) is a safe and effective starting point.
Application Parameter Guide by Material and Desired Effect
This section provides detailed parameter strategies for common materials. For each combination, we explain the goal, the underlying approach, and the specific settings for a 50W laser source. Use this as your detailed playbook, and remember to convert the power values if your laser marking machine has a different maximum wattage.
1. Stainless Steel: Achieving a Durable Black Annealed Mark
Desired Effect: A dark, high-contrast, and wear-resistant mark without significant engraving depth.
Key Strategy: Use controlled heat to induce surface oxidation, creating a dark iron oxide layer.
Parameter Setup:
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Power: Medium-High (35-45W). Provides sufficient energy to rapidly heat the surface to its oxidation threshold.
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Speed: Slow (100-300 mm/s). Allows heat to build up and diffuse evenly across the surface.
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Frequency: High (50-80 kHz). Ensures smooth, continuous heating for a uniform black color.
Why It Works: This combination gently “cooks” the surface. The high frequency and slow speed allow heat to spread evenly, while the medium-high power delivers the necessary temperature. Too low a power or too high a speed results in a faint gray mark.
2. Anodized Aluminum: Creating a Precise White Mark
Desired Effect: A clean, white mark by removing the colored anodized layer to reveal the bright metal underneath.
Key Strategy: Use laser energy to cleanly ablate (vaporize) the thin anodized coating without damaging the aluminum base.
Parameter Setup:
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Power: Medium (15-30W). Must be precisely tuned to remove the coating without engraving into the soft aluminum.
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Speed: Moderate to Fast (500-800 mm/s). Provides a clean removal effect and maintains high throughput.
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Frequency: Medium (20-50 kHz). Suitable for clean material removal.
Why It Works: The moderate power is key. It’s strong enough to vaporize the coating but controlled enough to stop at the base metal layer, creating a high-contrast, permanent white mark.
3. Plastic (Acrylic): Engraving Crisp, Melt-Free Details
Desired Effect: A frosted, white engraving with sharp edges and no melted blobs or burnt discoloration.
Key Strategy: Instantaneously vaporize a micro-layer of material, minimizing heat transfer to the surrounding area.
Parameter Setup:
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Power: Low (7.5-15W). Just enough to reach the material’s vaporization point.
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Speed: Very Fast (700-1200 mm/s). The most critical setting to limit exposure time and prevent melting.
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Frequency: Medium-High (40-60 kHz). Promotes smooth line definition.
Why It Works: It’s a race against heat conduction. The high speed allows the laser to deliver energy and move away before residual heat can melt the edges, resulting in a crisp, professional finish.
4. Natural Wood: Creating a Deep, Dark Engraving
Desired Effect: A dark brown or black engraving with good contrast and visible depth.
Key Strategy: Use heat to carbonize the wood fibers, which naturally darkens them, and remove material to create depth.
Parameter Setup:
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Power: Medium-High (25-40W). Sufficient to both carbonize and gently remove material.
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Speed: Slow to Moderate (200-400 mm/s). Allows time for effective carbonization and material removal.
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Passes: 1-2 passes. A second pass can deepen the mark and darken the color.
Why It Works: The laser’s heat carbonizes the wood, turning it dark. The moderate speed and power allow for controlled burning and engraving, creating a classic, rustic look.
5. Coated Metals: Precisely Removing a Paint Layer
Desired Effect: To cleanly strip away a painted or powder-coated layer, revealing the bare metal substrate without damaging it.
Key Strategy: Use a “lifting” effect where the laser energy vaporizes the coating at the interface, causing it to peel off.
Parameter Setup:
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Power: Low to Medium (10-25W). Must be carefully calibrated to the coating’s thickness and type.
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Speed: Moderate (400-700 mm/s). Balances effective removal with control.
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Frequency: High (50-100 kHz). Helps in cleanly breaking the bond of the coating.
Why It Works: The energy is absorbed by the coating, heating it rapidly and causing it to separate from the metal base. Precise power calibration is essential to avoid etching the underlying metal.
Finding Your Machine’s Settings & The Safe Test Method
How to Convert Parameters for YOUR Laser
Don’t worry if your laser marking machine isn’t 50W. You can easily estimate a starting point using a simple conversion principle. First, find your machine’s maximum power rating (e.g., 20W, 30W, 100W). The key is to match the energy intensity relative to your machine’s capability.
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Simple Conversion: If the guide suggests 40W for stainless steel on a 50W laser, that’s using 80% of its power (40W / 50W = 80%).
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For Your 30W Machine: Apply the same percentage (80%). Calculate: 30W x 0.8 = 24W. Start testing around 24W.
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For Your 100W Machine: 100W x 0.8 = 80W. Start there.
Always begin with the converted lower value and adjust upwards during testing.
The Foolproof Test Grid Method (Your Most Important Step)
Never guess on your final workpiece. A methodical test grid is the fastest way to find perfect settings and prevent waste.
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Step 1: Prepare. Take a scrap piece of your actual material.
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Step 2: Design a Grid. In your software, create a pattern of small squares (e.g., 5×5 mm).
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Step 3: Vary One Parameter. Keep speed and frequency constant. Program each square to fire at a different power level (e.g., 20W, 25W, 30W…).
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Step 4: Mark and Evaluate. Run the job. The grid will visually show you exactly which power setting gives the best result on your machine.
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Step 5: Repeat for Speed. Once you find a good power, test different speeds in a new grid while keeping power fixed.
Conclusion
Mastering laser marking is a journey of practice and fine-tuning. By starting with the foundational principles of depth, speed, and power outlined here, you have a clear roadmap to experiment and optimize settings for your specific projects. Remember, the best results always come from conducting material tests first. If you have questions about optimizing parameters for a unique material or achieving a specific effect on your machine, our team of experts is here to help. Contact us today for a personalized consultation to unlock your laser’s full potential.